An In-depth Look at A. Lange & Söhne Arkade
October 2023
A strong debut lays the foundation for enduring success. It offers customers something to believe in, something to aspire to, and something they can feel a part of. It establishes a promise of excellence and innovation. Just as Lamborghini’s 350GTV and Porsche’s Type 356 set the tone for their brands’ futures, A. Lange & Söhne’s return to watchmaking with its trailblazing inaugural collection cemented its legacy in the modern era of haute horology.
Recommended Video: A. Lange Story Part 2.
A. Lange & Söhne’s 1994 inaugural collection was a masterclass in appealing to a diverse spectrum of watch enthusiasts, each piece crafted to resonate with a particular type of connoisseur. The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite captivated high horology aficionados with its groundbreaking technical achievements, boldly signaling the brand’s intent to lead in innovation. The Lange 1, with its asymmetrical dial and exquisite detailing, was a magnet for collectors who appreciate a new breath in watch design.
Meanwhile, the Saxonia paid homage to tradition while offering a contemporary twist, appealing to those who valued classic aesthetics infused with a sense of history. For discerning women, the Arkade represented a refreshing departure from typical and easy-way-out diamond-studded designs, showcasing that women’s watches can house exciting watchmaking.
Together, these timepieces didn’t just mark a return for A. Lange & Söhne—they redefined the landscape of high-end watchmaking.
A Royal Case
The classic Arkade, introduced in 1994 in yellow gold, measures a modest 29 x 22 mm yet stands out with its relatively substantial thickness of 8.7 mm. Its nearly tonneau-shaped case, inspired by the arcades of Dresden Castle—or perhaps the famed walkways of Bologna—was conceived during A. Lange & Söhne’s historic revival on the evening of October 24, 1994.
True to A. Lange & Söhne’s design ethos, the Arkade features a sophisticated three-step case construction: a prominent case band, a slimmer case back ring, and a finely proportioned bezel. This design mirrors the first-generation Saxonia, though reimagined in a more compact and delicate form. From a profile view, the Arkade reveals a “biscuit-like” structure, discreetly housing the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the brand.
Lange Arkade from the profile
Dresden’s famous Stallhof
The lugs, slender and intricately faceted, enhance the watch’s sleek silhouette, their fully polished surfaces harmonizing with the Arkade’s elegant architecture. The result is a timepiece that balances timeless refinement with subtle sophistication, making it a standout piece in A. Lange & Söhne’s inaugural collection.
The Grand Arkade collection introduced a significant size increase, measuring 38 x 29.5 mm, compared to the standard Arkade variants. While the larger dimensions made the watch more prominent, the use of the same movement resulted in dial elements being scaled up to fill the additional space. In my view, this adjustment came at the expense of the Arkade’s inherent elegance, shifting its aesthetic balance.
Below is a list of the main Arkade references with various case and dial combinations for reference:
- 103.001 – Yellow gold / Champagne dial, closed back (1994 – 1998)
- 103.007 – White gold / Blue dial (1997 – 2002)
- 103.021 – Yellow gold / Champagne dial, open back (1997 – 2009)
- 103.025 – Platinum / Silver dial (2005 – 2007)
- 103.035 – Platinum / Black dial (1999 – 2009) • 104.001 – Yellow gold / Silver dial with blued hands and printed numerals (1994 – 1995)
- 801.001 – Yellow gold / Champagne dial with a brilliant diamond bezel and solid back (1995 – 1997)
As is typical with Lange, the Arkade was also available with a bracelet, diamond bezels, mother-of-pearl dials, and pave diamond dials. A similar list applies to the Grand Arkade collection, with references starting with 106.xxx.
Courtesy of a great collector and a client. Lange Arkade with blue dial and Wellendorff Bracelet.
Arkade – The Dial
The big date dominates the relatively compact dial, acting as its most striking feature. Positioned prominently, it draws the eye immediately while being balanced by the understated A. Lange & Söhne logo beneath it. This design choice ensures that the upper portion of the dial feels grounded, creating a sense of equilibrium with the small seconds subdial below.
In contrast, the Grand Arkade struggles to maintain the same refined proportions. To fill the expanded dial space, additional Roman numerals were added at the 5–7 and 11–1 positions. However, much like the first generation of the Grand Lange 1 or the Grosse Langematik, these efforts disrupt the balance and elegance that define the original Arkade. The resulting design feels forced, compromising the harmonious proportions and making the Grand Arkade a less desirable option in comparison to its more gracefully designed predecessor.
Grand Arkade (left) vs. the original Arkade
Arkade Caliber L911
In the early 20th century, the watchmaking industry was driven by a quest for compactness, a challenge that not only showcased engineering ingenuity but also catered to the desire for discreet, elegant timepieces. One of the most remarkable achievements of this era was the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 101, introduced in 1929.
Without the aid of modern CAD design or CNC machining, Jaeger-LeCoultre managed to produce thousands of these miniature movements, each measuring an astonishing 14 mm in length, 4.8 mm in width, and 3.4 mm in thickness. Even more impressive, these tiny calibers achieved chronometer-level accuracy, a feat that remains a testament to the watchmakers’ unparalleled skill and precision.
Caliber L911 in all its glory with signature elements, done to perfection. Courtesy of SteveG
Lange Arkade’s caliber L911 is a marvel of engineering that often flies under the radar. Measuring 25.6 x 17.6 mm with a thickness of just 4.6 mm, this compact movement incorporates a big date mechanism, an exceptionally power-intensive feature for a movement of this size. Despite its small dimensions, the L911 achieves an impressive 42-hour power reserve, a testament to its efficient design and meticulous craftsmanship.
A respected collector aptly highlighted the L911’s significance, stating:
“In fact, I am not at all convinced that the 941 and 942 (used in the Saxonia and 1815, respectively) movements are not similarly derived. This suggests that being the first and the smallest, the Arkade’s 911 might be considered the most sophisticated of this group of four, further solidifying Lange’s commitment to offering a ladies-sized watch that competes with the best in the world. The movement runs at 3Hz and exhibits all the expected Lange design touches: thorough jeweling (30 jewels), a screwed balance with an engraved cock and goose-neck fine adjuster, as well as brilliant red rubies, gold chatons, and deeply blued screws.”
This attention to detail places the L911 firmly within A. Lange & Söhne’s tradition of exceptional watchmaking, even at a smaller scale. The movement’s finely tuned performance and exquisite finishing underscore the brand’s dedication to offering a ladies’ watch that holds its own against the most sophisticated timepieces in the world.
Interestingly, the L911 was also used in the first-generation Saxonia models with closed case backs. When the Saxonia transitioned to display case backs showcasing the newer series of calibers, the rectangular L911 was phased out. However, if you happen to open a first-generation Saxonia with a closed back, don’t be surprised to find the L911 inside—a fascinating link between two key parts of Lange’s early modern history.
The first generation Saxonia with caliber L911 beating beneath the gold. Read more at Saxonia chapter.
Concluding Thoughts
For this section, once again, I am going to refer to one awesome collector (SteveG’s Launchpad) and his views of this gem, who purchased one for his wife. A perfect summary:
“On a personal note, I decided to purchase this watch for my wife after finding myself thoroughly charmed by my own Lange watches, and further that I didn’t want it to be just another piece of mechanical jewelry. For this reason, I chose the color combination of my 1815 model, and because it has the plain, rather than jeweled, bezel, I have emphasized to her that although it is a fine watch, perhaps the finest current-production ladies’ watch available, it is understated and durable enough for everyday wear. If for some reason this line of thinking fails, I can take comfort in the realization that the Arkade’s dimensions would make it entirely at home amongst the rectangular watches typical of 50 or 60 years ago, designs I am also fond of, and which fit my smallish wrist quite well…”
In between many references from the main collections of the brand, A. Lange & Söhne Arkade stands as a hidden gem that embodies the perfect fusion of elegance, engineering prowess, and timeless design.
As we explore its history, distinctive features, and aesthetic allure, it becomes evident that the Arkade’s allure transcends the boundaries of mere timekeeping. With its limited production, unique dial layouts, and the sophistication of its movement, the Arkade commands not only the attention but also the admiration of discerning collectors. For those who appreciate both the art and science of watchmaking, the Arkade remains a coveted addition to any collection, a testament to the enduring legacy of precision craftsmanship and design innovation.
Especially in our time, where most ladies’ watches just focus on ostentatious displays, and not much else. Arkade, with its many faces, is there to be enjoyed.
I hope this was a valuable guide for whomever is looking for a Zeitwerk model or just want to learn the details and history of these pieces. If you’d like to chat, sell or buy a Zeitwerk, please kindly reach out to me via [email protected]
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