A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
The Definitive Guide – May 2020 / Updated December 2024
After almost 50 years of silence, the flag carrier of German watchmaking and its founder from Glashütte – A. Lange & Söhne – introduced its first modern collection in 1994. Each one of the four pieces was, without a single doubt, an instant hit. Yet, among the musketeers, there was a special one. It was nothing like any other watch that anyone had ever seen. A watch with an eccentric dial which was based on strict calculations, solid lines and curves… It was emphasizing engineering rather than romanticism and its movement was carrying the flag of its ancestors from a century ago: Lange 1.
Since then, the Lange 1 is the face of A. Lange & Söhne. Yet, an object is a mere product without a story of its creation. Therefore, it is paramount to walk down the lane…
Quick Facts:
- Introduced in 1994 as part of the first collection
- Available in gold and steel
- Available with bracelets
- Offers collectable references / periods
- Updated in 2015 with subtle tweaks and a new movement
Following the devastating quartz crisis, during the ’80s and the ’90s, the watch industry rejuvinated itself by shifting the focus on luxury, status, tradition instead of the previous, tangible claims such as precision, accuracy. In conjunction, similar high complications returned at full throttle. Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th Anniversary in 1989 with a range of exceptional pieces including the famous caliber 89 . Blancpain followed with reference 1735 grande complication in 1991. IWC, a watchmaking powerhouse back then, unveiled Destriero Scafusia in celebrations of its 125th birth year in 1993.
While-in general-Swiss Watch Industry was busy adding complications on top of each other and relying on traditional designs without foreign competition; something entirely different was cooking across the border. Following the re-registration in 1990 and 4 years of intense work, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the first collection, which Lange 1 was involved, of 123 watches. The collection of four models and three calibers on the evening of 24th of October.
Introduction of the first collection in 1994. Courtesy of Lange Uhren GmbH
The result was nothing short of remarkable. Each watch unveiled that night stood apart as a unique creation, featuring signature elements conceived by Günter Blümlein and the design team, which included visionaries like Reinhard Meis and Kurt Klaus. Much of what defines A. Lange & Söhne today rests on the foundation laid by these individuals and their collaborators of the era.
The demand was instant—every one of the 123 pieces was sold within minutes. To ensure fairness among the invited retailers, the final three watches were distributed by drawing matchsticks. Walter Lange described the moment as “the most exciting moment of my life.”
The first collection of A. Lange & Söhne represents more than just the re-birth of a company. It embodies a lifelong dream realized. The Lange 1, in particular, carries a piece of that soul, a testament to the passion and vision behind its creation.
Lange 1
In a 1994 interview with Gilsbert Brunner, he articulated this vision, stating:
Brunner: Do you consider the first modern collection by A. Lange & Söhne as a tribute to a great, albeit long ago, past?
Blümlein: Definitely not. The 1994 A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches and all upcoming models are anything but epigones of watchmaking legends. Take our big date in the “Arcade,” Lange 1 “and” Saxonia “. One can only speak of helpful innovation or mechanical sensation. The same applies to the construction of our calibers. It is not our intention to celebrate traditional craftsmanship or to compete for the most complicated clock. One of our goals is watchmaking beauty and perfect craftsmanship. On the other hand, innovations and differentiating design are important parameters for us.
Familiar Faces to the Lange crow: Helmut Geyer, Annegret Fleischer, Kurt Klaus… Courtesy of Lange Uhren GmbH
These principles ultimately led to the creation of the Lange 1. The team—Meis, Blümlein, Klaus, Geyer, and others—understood that the design had to be distinctive, memorable. They spent years perfecting the proportions. Once they arrived at the asymmetric layout, countless hours were dedicated to refining the placement of each indication, rotating and adjusting until they achieved the design that is now widely regarded as an icon.
The design of the Lange 1 (more on this below) has remained virtually unchanged for over 25 years. While the collection has expanded—introducing variations like the Daymatic with its mirrored layout, Little Lange 1 with petite size, or the larger Grand Lange 1—the original 38.5 mm Lange 1 has stood the test of time, untouched.
Over the years, A. Lange & Söhne has introduced other groundbreaking creations such as the Datograph, Double Split, and Zeitwerk. Yet, the Lange 1, with its understated, simple, and still unmistakable design, remains the face of the brand. It has become so integral to Lange’s identity that altering it feels as forbidden as touching Adam’s Apple.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Sold at Langepedia x The 1916 Company Marketplace
The first watch of the collection, reference 101.001 in yellow gold, holds a special place in Lange’s history. Initially, Lange introduced the early Lange 1 models with a solid gold case back, which was replaced by a transparent version just a year later. This historical significance, coupled with its rarity, makes the 101.001 highly collectible. Other references with solid gold case backs include:
- 101.002 – Yellow gold / silver dial with blue hands
- 101.005 – Platinum / silver dial
- 101.007 – White gold / blue dial (unique but possibly not an original dial)
- 101.011 – Pink gold / black dial
This article begins with a detailed exploration of the first-generation Lange 1 models (1994–2015), analyzing their case, dial, and movement individually. It then shifts focus to the current generation Lange 1 collection, highlighting the key updates and differences compared to the earlier models. Lastly, the article offers a brief overview of some noteworthy special editions, providing a comprehensive look at the evolution of the Lange 1 over the years.
Please note that expansion models such as Lange 1 Timezone, or special editions are not going to be taken under the loupe here. You can see the whole assembly under the Lange 1 Collection Page.
Lange 1 - The Signature Case
The journey to create something truly distinctive began with the cases. Lange’s cases are straightforward in appearance, yet they are imbued with splendid details that provide a sense of confidence and comfort when worn.
A signature feature of every Lange case is the notched and angled lugs, each finished separately. This detail, subtle yet striking, makes Lange cases instantly recognizable without being overly flashy. Unsurprisingly, this idea originated with Günter Blümlein. According to several senior A. Lange & Söhne employees, Blümlein himself notched the lugs on the brass prototype—a fascinating detail also highlighted on SJXwatches.com. The craftsmanship and thought behind this feature underscore the meticulous care that defines Lange’s design philosophy.
The small area created by the notch in the lugs is mirror-polished, providing a beautiful contrast against the brushed case band. The lugs themselves are generously curved and beveled, with a surface that seamlessly tapers from the two bevels at the top towards a sharp finish at the bottom. It’s truly brilliant work.
Almost all first-generation Lange 1 models (except Soirée) share the same dimensions: 38.5 mm in diameter and 9.8 mm in thickness. The case construction consists of three levels—the bezel and case back rings are polished, while the case band is brushed. This combination creates a stunning contrast and a clever illusion of slimness. The date pusher at 10 o’clock follows the same meticulous craftsmanship, featuring beveled, brushed, and polished surfaces.
Even after handling hundreds of A. Lange & Söhne watches, I remain in awe of the attention to detail and the exceptional quality in even the smallest elements. Take, for example, the famous bar in Lange pin buckles. It serves no practical purpose but adds weight to the watch, enhancing its character and presence. It’s just one of the many genius touches by Blümlein, showcasing the unparalleled thoughtfulness behind every Lange creation.
Lange 1 - Game Changer Dial
The Oxford Dictionary summarizes the word “icon” as follows;
“A famous person or thing that people admire and see as a symbol of a particular idea, way of life, etc.”
The key idea is the symbol thus the representation. An icon represents and captures an event or an artistic style just perfectly. On the other hand, what makes something iconic is not necessarily its universal acclaim of beauty but its mythology and story behind. Lange 1 is the foundational stone in the brand’s biography.
Recommended Reading: Understanding the Lange 1 Darth
Think of Picasso’s Guernica—a masterpiece that tells a story, conveys an idea, and embodies inspiration. It captures the horror of war, specifically the bombing of Guernica, in a way that makes it an undisputed representation of Picasso’s work. Or think of Michael Jackson—his music, style, and lyrics are inseparable from any discussion of pop culture. Similarly, Vermeer’s The Girl With a Pearl Earring serves as an enduring icon of the Dutch Golden Age.
In this same way, the Lange 1 symbolizes the rebirth of German high-end watchmaking in 1994. It was one of the first four watches introduced by A. Lange & Söhne after nearly 50 years of dormancy. Its design is entirely unconventional yet has remained virtually unchanged since its inception. The Lange 1 embodies tradition, drawing inspiration from the five-minute clock in Semper Opera, and merges it seamlessly with the minimalist principles of the Bauhaus artistic movement. From its historical significance to its story and impact on the field, the Lange 1 is undoubtedly one of the few true icons of modern watchmaking.
The Lange 1 dial design follows the rule of thirds, a principle suggesting that when an object or image is divided into nine equal parts by two horizontal and vertical lines, key elements should align along these lines or their intersections. This principle lends the Lange 1 its harmonious balance, creating an appearance of randomness while delivering comforting symmetry. The center of each dial element aligns with these lines. For instance, the hour/minute sub-dial’sborders horizontally align with the big date and seconds sub-dial, further reinforcing its symmetrical aesthetic.
No compromise. Courtesy of Lange Uhren GmbH
The curved logo at 12 o’clock immediately draws the eye, crafted in a custom typeface unique to A. Lange & Söhne. Nothing in the design of the Lange 1 is left to chance. From the curves of the letters to the spacing between them, every detail feels deliberate and distinct.
The Big Date, or outsized date display, is another masterstroke that exemplifies how A. Lange & Söhne merges tradition with modernity. Though originally a Jaeger-LeCoultre invention—a sister company to A. Lange & Söhne—Günter Blümlein brought the concept to Glashütte, intertwining it with a key piece of A. Lange & Söhne’s history: the five-minute clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera House, crafted by F.A. Lange’s mentor, Gutkaes.
The Lange 1 and the Big Date are inseparable—Lange 1 is Big Date, and Big Date is Lange 1. This feature is not merely functional but also symbolic, bridging the brand’s conservative legacy with modern present.
The signature element of the Lange 1, the Big Date, is positioned at 1 o’clock, precisely at the intersection of the lines dictated by the rule of thirds. Its window size is carefully proportioned according to the golden ratio (1.618).A closer look reveals the symmetry at play: the bottom edge of the date window aligns perfectly with the applied XII, while the seconds sub-dial aligns horizontally with the VI at the lower side.
The Big Date windows are crafted from the same material as the watch case (with the exception of reference 101.022, which utilizes the 101.027x dial). The polished frames surrounding the windows enhance the aesthetic by illuminating the deep-set date discs. Interestingly, the discs do not sit side by side but rather overlap slightly, with the central frame cleverly hiding the overlap.
For the first generation of the Lange 1 collection, the date change occurs between 10 PM and 12:30 AM. It’s recommended not to adjust the time-setting mechanism during this period to avoid damaging the movement. Once the date change is complete, a delightful “click” is going to signal the transition.
If you’ve ever noticed, in all official material from A. Lange & Söhne, the date is always set to 25. This isn’t by chance. When the Lange 1 was unveiled at Dresden Castle on October 24, 1994, print media was the primary mode of communication in the watch industry. The announcement of the collection appeared in publications on October 25, and the watches’ date was set to reflect this. It’s yet another testament to the brand’s meticulous attention to detail and historical precision.
The first Lange 1 model, reference 101.001, was introduced in yellow gold with a champagne-colored dial. The main dial features a subtle grained texture, while the sub-dials stand out with finely crafted concentric circles. According to meticulous research by @thewindingstem and @handwound, the hours/minutes sub-dial contains an astonishing 153 circles. The diamond-shaped indices, though measuring less than a millimeter on each edge, exhibit flawless mirror polishing and delicate bevels.
The power reserve indicator on the right is designed with five small triangles, each measuring just 0.40 mm in height and width. Interestingly, the spacing between the triangles is not uniform. This is not an oversight but rather a thoughtful design feature of the Lange 1, which makes most many first time Lange 1 owners a bit nervous at first!
When fully wound, it takes roughly 1.5 days for the indicator to move from the top triangle to the bottom two, and another 1.5 to 2 days for the watch to completely unwind. This clever design gives the owner a visual cue to wind the watch before it stops. If the spacing were uniform, the owner might not feel the need to wind it until the power reserve was fully depleted.
This quirky yet functional detail exemplifies the exceptional overall differentiating approach that goes into every aspect of the Lange 1. Just a marvelous piece overall.
Some Generational Differences
No icon is without quirks and several feats that enhances the collectability and Lange 1 is no exception. As documented by Larry Peh, there are differences in the typography between the early and later Lange models. Mr. Peh states that “for the early re-founded Lange timepieces, the “Made in Germany” liner was rendered with a sans-serif face with inferred geometric qualities. In later and more recent pieces, however, all text elements on the dial are displayed using the bespoke display face.” This also applies to the Doppelfederhaus and Auf, Ab texts.
Another difference is the date-windows and appliques, as it is more easy-going, curved in early production pieces and much sharper, machine perfected in later models.
Please note that there’s also a transitional period for a few Lange 1 references, where we see Serif Made in Germany but with rounded, curved appliques and date-window.
Later (left) and early Lange 1 models. The dial color is due to the light.
All said, the Lange 1 is the face of A. Lange & Söhne. It was conceived, and in my opinion was perfected, as a result of long mathematical calculations and strict design rules; yet it is not soullessly perfect. Its soul is not romantic as French or Swiss; but strong and relentless. It perfectly reflects what it was meant to be. A friend once said, the joy I get from Lange 1 is almost cerebral. I am sure that it will be acclaimed even fifty years from now as a piece of art.
Lange 1 Caliber L901.0
As the name implies – L(90)1.0, Lange 1’s movement was first sketched in 1990, and it is the first ever movement built by modern A. Lange & Söhne. Actually, caliber L901.0 borrows its gear train from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 822; albeit it was heavily modified to accompany the eccentric dial design of Lange 1.
This modification laid the grounds of what was going to be A. Lange & Söhne’s movement identity with German Silver three-quarter plate, blued screws, gold chatons, Glashütte ribbing (a bit wider than its Swiss counterpart) and hand-engraved balance cock. A modern interpretation of a 150 years old tradition.
However, Lange decided to hide such an exceptional view from the eyes behind a thick layer of gold in 1994. Because, during the ’90s, it was not the norm to showcase movements. Lange introduced the sapphire caseback versions only a year after under different reference numbers; while still continuing the production of solid caseback Lange 1 versions too.
101.005 (left) and 101.001
The Caliber L901.1 powering the Lange 1 measures 30.60 mm in diameter, houses 53 jewels with 9 gold chatons, and provides a 72-hour power reserve via its double barrel (Doppelfederhaus). Beating at 3Hz, the movement completely fills the case back, as is characteristic of Lange, and perfectly complements the 32.50 mm dial.
The first-generation Lange 1s featured a Glucydur balance wheel with screws. While this regulating organ was not free-sprung but adjusted using an index—already considered somewhat outdated at the time—it offered reliable performance. Notably, the first batches of Lange 1 watches used Breguet overcoils for their balance springs, known for their positive effects on timekeeping. However, this practice was discontinued after approximately 2000 watches, with Lange switching to flat balance springs. The change was likely due to the significant time required to craft overcoils.
I remember readingin the forums, this shift sparked a heated debate among collectors, most famously the legendary Walt Odets, who questioned whether Lange was pursuing tradition only when it was convenient. Odets remarked:
“I think it is a shame that Lange is not using overcoils in all its watches—it would make Langes less of a pretense, because this is an element of tradition that would really add to the function of the watches. I would rather have them spend time on this than on the engraved cock (which incidentally is prone to snagging the regulator index).”
On the movement side, the three-quarter plate features playful “islands,” adding a bit of visual interest to an otherwise understated design. These islands arise from the unusual dial layout, which affects the gear arrangement adapted from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 822. The center cutout covers the keyless works, where the crown stem extends to the middle, while the left cutout houses the seconds hand.
Apart from its technicality, the high level of handcraft on the Lange 1 movement is unobjectionable. Along with the free-hand engraving, the inward angle on the flat polished escape wheel cap is a proof for the manual handwork went into the decoration of the movement. The color palette created by the nickel silver’s warm hue as well as blued screws and gold chatons is a joy to observe under different light.
As a final note: I remember several discussions as Lange is spending too much time on what is visible and neglecting the rest which was justified by some keyless works’ photos of early Saxonia watches, the brand radically improved the finish of the “unseen” parts and as a guy who was fortunate enough to visit the manufacture many times, you can take my word for this – if it has any weight.
In 2015, after more than 20 years of its introduction and many variations; A. Lange & Söhne updated Lange 1 with noteworthy changes on the movement front; but only slight touches on design. The reference of the line was updated to 191.xxx from the previous 101.xxx.
Modern Lange 1 (2015 - )
The Lange 1’s renewal reminds me of Apple’s iOS 7 update in 2013, when Sir Jony Ive reimagined the user interface. The overhaul moved away from 3D, deep, and complex graphics to a flatter, cleaner, and more transparent aesthetic. It was a shift toward simplicity—a departure from visual heaviness. Similarly, the Lange 1 update followed this principle, refining the design in a way that felt modern yet retained its iconic essence. It was an exercise in restraint, a testament to the brand’s ability to evolve without compromising the spirit the Lange 1.
The Lange 1 reference 191.025 (second generation) on the left and the earlier 101.025 (stealth) on the right
In the new Lange 1 generation; the lettering is noticeably thinner, spacious and sharper and the bezel is slightly flattened. Apart from these slight changes, there is no other change in the appearance of the model; as it should be. All the characteristic details and perfectly calculated proportions of the watch is kept. The design is more on the front without slight distractions of bold typefaces and I say it is better!
The movement side, however, went through a complete overhaul. The new caliber L121.1, far superior in technicality, was the real update the Lange 1 had received.
The updated Caliber L121.1 introduces several significant aesthetic and technical changes. From a design standpoint, the movement eliminates the “go-around” solutions of the previous caliber, resulting in a clean three-quarter plate. This change is evident in the repositioned gold chatons, which no longer mark the “islands” seen in the earlier version.
One noticeable update is the relocation of the balance wheel, now positioned closer to the crown rather than at the opposite end. The winding stem must pass through the balance, which required shifting the regulating organ slightly upwards. This adjustment aligns the balance with the three-quarter plate, leaving it completely visible without obstruction from the going train—a detail I personally appreciate. However, a small compromise is the change to the black-polished escape wheel cap, which now features a rounded design instead of the inward-angled look of its predecessor.
On the technical side, Caliber L121.1 retains the 72-hour power reserve and 3Hz frequency, but it introduces a jumping date mechanism, replacing the previous dragging version—a significant upgrade. The new movement also features a free-sprung balance, which is larger than the regulated version in the previous caliber. Additionally, the older Glucydur balance with screws has been replaced by an in-house balance wheel with eccentric poising weights. While the latter is theoretically superior, the regulators at Lange reminded me that the ultimate performance still depends on the skill of the watchmaker.
In 2019, A. Lange & Söhne celebrated 25 years of the Lange 1 with a “25th Anniversary” series. The festivities began in January with the release of the regular Lange 1 model (limited to 250 pieces), followed by additional family variations launched over the following months, each limited to 25 pieces.
Respectfully, I find the Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” series to be one of the brand’s most uninspiring collections. While the individual watches are captivating, as a 10-piece collection, it lacks coherence and purpose in my view.
But that’s a discussion for another article!
Buying an A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
All said, Lange 1, without a doubt, is the bread and butter of A. Lange & Söhne and it is rightfully so. After more than 25 years of its introduction it is going stronger than ever and representing the German high-end watchmaking. Although tried to be copied several times, remain unique in the ocean of derivative pieces. Hence, after staying under the radar for about 25 years, it finally gets the traction it deserves in the eyes of the collectors, or to some extent, flippers.
I have no doubt that even after decades we are going to look back and see Lange 1 as the representative of high-end German Watchmaking, or as the popular saying goes, an icon.
Buying a Lange 1 is a delightful endavour, because you have something almost every price point and rarity, tempting collectors from the most exotic one with the Lange 1 Soirée, to the most understated one with the Stealth. That said, we can create a simple guide based on the pre-owned price points of the Lange 1 models:
The references 101.032 (pink gold / silver dial) and 101.021 (yellow gold / champagne dial) due to their lenghty production years as well as formal looks, tend to be the most approachable references of the collection, floating around mid 20s, depending on the condition, set, service history, etc..
Following, we can put the famous stealth reference 101.025 (platinum / silver dial) in the middle section, hovering around $30k region. The stealth too was on the catalogue for a long time, yet in far fewer numbers, and you know, Lange platinum is always an attraction!
At the highest end, starting from $40k region, we can mention the 101.035 (platinum / black dial) the famous Darth, and basically there is no limit from here. We have the utterly rare Soirée references, to delightful 101.027 (white gold / blue dial) to the mythical 101.028 (yellow gold / blue dial) and so on… Early Lange 1 generation is a true treasure chest, waiting to be discovered, still. And I hope this article helps a bit.
Thank you.
I hope this was a valuable guide for whomever is looking for a Lange 1 model or just want to learn the details and history of these pieces. If you’d like to chat, sell or buy a Lange 1, please kindly reach out to me via [email protected]
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