A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
The Definitive Guide – June 2020 – Updated Feb. 2023
Before 2009, Lange’s watch families included Lange 1, Saxonia (encompassing Datograph, Double Split, etc.), 1815 (including Tourbograph), and a time-only Richard Lange. While each was distinctive, none could be considered a bombshell, at least not in the anticipated sense. A. Lange & Söhne was perceived as a traditional watchmaking manufacturé, aligned with a group known for eschewing risk. Despite the uniqueness and originality of icons like Lange 1 and Datograph, they leaned more towards the classic end of the spectrum.
However, expecting Lange to endlessly rejuvenate the past with a veneer of tradition and heritage was futile. Little known to many, the claim of being a traditional manufacture ran counter to the very foundational codes of A. Lange & Söhne. In a 1994 interview with Brunner, Günter Blümlein specifically highlighted Lange’s ties with tradition, pointing out that this affiliation was not about stagnation but rather a commitment to evolving and redefining watchmaking traditions.
Brunner: Do you consider the first modern collection by A. Lange & Söhne as a tribute to a great, albeit long ago, past?
Blümlein: Definitely not. The 1994 A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches and all upcoming models are anything but epigones of watchmaking legends. One can only speak of helpful innovation or mechanical sensation. The same applies to the construction of our calibers. It is not our intention to celebrate traditional craftsmanship or to compete for the most complicated clock. One of our goals is watchmaking beauty and perfect craftsmanship. On the other hand, innovations and differentiating design are important parameters for us.
Recommended Reading: The Definitive Guide to Lange 1
Then in 2009, when the majority of the top brands were relying on trusted and proven designs, Lange stepped on to the stage with the boldest move they have ever taken with something I refer to as the second re-birth of A. Lange & Söhne: The Zeitwerk.
It was not like anything the brand produced before, not even close. It was not following a trend as there was none. It was not something one would expect from such a traditional brand. Many hated, many loved, but none was indifferent. People wrote I have gone from hating to falling in love in two hours; and that was indeed the goal and success. Famous words that every watch enthusiast used at least once in their lifetime losing the DNA were echoing in every GtG or forum discussions, claiming that Lange lost its core. Yet, it was the true reveal of the essence.
In discussions, both then and now, Product Development Director Anthony De Haas shared that dealing with critiques from collectors and journalists was a challenging experience. He emphasized, “this is what you want. Controversy, polarization… Otherwise, it means you did not try hard enough.” However, he also noted that the amount of controversy surrounding the Zeitwerk was surpassed by another Lange creation—Odysseus.
Recommended Reading: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Enter into this saga on Instagram and watch collecting, known for his distinctive taste in both shirts and watches, as well as his candid opinions: @santa_laura. He once told me, “I only like Zeitwerk. The rest pretty much look the same to me. Too German in engineering. You don’t want a BMW on your wrist.”
Replicating tradition was never the goal; building upon it was. Thus, Zeitwerk stands as the perfect example of how A. Lange & Söhne seamlessly merges 150 years of tradition with modernity—without sacrificing even a bit of its distinctive character. The article below is crafted to serve as an extensive guide through all Zeitwerk models from 2009 to 2020. Buckle up!
Zeitwerk Collection
The concept of jumping hours/minutes dates back to the 19th century when it was patented by Josef Pallweber from Austria. The patent was also granted to IWC and several other companies. IWC’s Pallweber model from the late 19th century showcased vertically aligned hours/minutes indications—a design dictated by the technical constraints of the time. In Pallweber’s patent application, a clear desire for horizontal alignment is evident but was not realized due to these limitations. In this context, A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk represents the realization of this concept with exceptional accuracy and reliability after more than 120 years—an astonishing engineering achievement, to say the least.
The drawings of Pallweber from the US patents office 1880s
I always liked to discover the people behind the scenes, as most of the time they’re the true heroes, unfortunately hidden away for the brands’ ambitions. The mastermind behind the jumping digital display of Zeitwerk was Jens Schneider – his patent can be read through here. A prototypist of the brand for more than a decade, Mr. Schneider currently works as the product development director of Lang & Heyne.
Since its inception in 2009, the Zeitwerk collection has seen significant expansion. Initially introduced in four distinct metals – platinum, yellow gold, white gold, and pink gold – it became evident that the collection had firmly established its presence. The platinum Zeitwerk 140.025 was a limited edition of 200 pieces, while the others remained in regular production. While the collection has primarily served as a platform for chiming complications, its 10th anniversary marked the introduction of the Zeitwerk Date, adding another dimension to the base.
An Odd Case
The intriguing peculiarities of the Zeitwerk commence with its case. A notable feature upon inspecting the case is the prominent crown positioned at 2 o’clock. This arrangement is a direct outcome of the movement’s architecture, which situates the balance wheel in the conventional 3 o’clock position.
The Zeitwerk boasts a 41.9 mm diameter and a relatively slender (considering its complexity) 12.6 mm thickness. The case design and finishing adhere to A. Lange & Söhne’s characteristic style—Teutonic, serious, substantial, and uncompromising. The case is structured in three levels: bezel, case band, and case back. While the bezel and case back exhibit a mirror-polished finish, the case band is brushed. This not only provides a striking contrast but also creates a visual illusion, making the watch appear even more slender. The lugs, a distinctive feature found in all of the brand’s watches, stand out with their signature notched bases and intricate architecture and finish.
The lugs and the case structure, finish. Iconic.
Please note that the pink gold Zeitwerk models (prior to 2017-2018) feature a fully polished case instead of the usual partly brushed version. A long time Lange collector CR recently chimed on this topic at Watchprosite.com:
“As those who’ve followed Lange know, the brand never brushed the middle section of its rose gold cases until relatively recently. Their RG cases were always completely polished. This was due to concerns about the rose gold alloy’s ability to withstand the same (standard) brushed finishing that Lange used on all of its other cases (YG, WG, PT, HG, SS).
I think the specific concern involved tarnishing/discoloration of the brushed finish over time — that the middle of the rose gold case might eventually look too different from the rest of the case if it were brushed. It always struck me as odd that Lange didn’t see this as a problem that needed to be solved before any products could be released.”
The feeling on the wrist is gratifying. It is heavy, it is there, and one can feel the snap when the remontoir discharges its energy to move the huge discs. Also, thanks to its lug profile, the watch sits very balanced on the wrist without any wobble. It is truly an “experience” that one can only fully appreciate by strapping it on the wrist.
Here, I would like to quote one of the greatest to write about watches – Walt Odets reflects the feeling of Lange watches on the wrist the best. He describes the feeling on his article Purely Personal Musings on a Lange Saxonia as follows:
At 34mm and a slightly thick 8.5 mm or so, it looked like a biscuit and was twice the weight a gold watch its size ought to be. The buckle was twice the weight it ought to be. Even the sapphire back had more gold in it than two solid backs from anyone else.
Zeitwerk - The Dial
The design of the Zeitwerk was guided by two key goals: to create a dial with a truly distinctive aesthetic and to horizontally align the hours and minutes for optimal legibility and balance. While the initial concept traces its origins back to the Pallweber pocket watch, it was A. Lange & Söhne that perfected the execution, overcoming significant technical and aesthetic challenges. The credit for this groundbreaking design belongs to Nils Bode.
At the heart of Lange Zeitwerk’s allure lies its deceptively simple dial. The standout feature is its digital time windows, a modern reinterpretation of the famous Five-Minute Clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera House. Designed and made Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, this historic clock replaced traditional hands with numeric time displays, setting a precedent for mechanical innovation.
The Zeitwerk encapsulates this heritage, transforming a 150-year-old concept into a contemporary masterpiece. With a 41 mm case, it combines timeless tradition with cutting-edge modernity, making it more than just a watch—it’s a time-travel machine.
The first generation 140.029 (left) and the second generation 142.031 (right). Courtesy of Lange Uhren GmbH
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk’s dial is a masterclass in achieving dual symmetry. The windows for hours and minutes are aligned on the horizontal axis, while the hands and sub-dial circles create a vertical alignment. This symmetry is further accentuated by the bat wing-shaped time bridge, which elegantly contours the dial, balancing the upper and lower halves. The negative space between the time bridge and the power reserve indicator mirrors the proportions of the large seconds sub-dial below. The gong-shaped spaces flanking the time bridge gives hints on the Zeitwerk Striking Time and Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. In Lange Zeitwerk, symmetry feels anything but mundane—it captivates rather than constrain.
Much like automotive designs that craft a distinctive “face” or expression on the front grille, the Zeitwerk, with its two prominent windows, exudes personality—a trait that classical watches often lack. Its design communicates a reserved, contemplative emotion, as if it is gazing back at you, counterbalancing the complexity of the movement hidden beneath. This interplay between restraint and hidden excitement is just a delight to know, and feel everytime the discs make the strong jump.
The ZeitBrücke (time bridge) is one of the watch’s most defining features. Made from rhodium-plated German silver, it is brushed to contrast against the grainy surface of the dial. While it serves as an aesthetic anchor, its role extends far beyond decoration. The screw on the left and the bearing jewel on the right reveal its mechanical significance as an integral structural component of the movement.
The seamless integration of a functional element into the Zeitwerk’s overall aesthetic demonstrates A. Lange & Söhne’s design ingenuity. The ZeitBrücke not only serves as a hallmark of the watch but also embodies the brand’s philosophy of harmonizing form and function, elevating it from a mere part to the Zeitwerk’s signature.
As controversial or out of the line as it is; Zeitwerk was immediately recognized by GPHG in 2009 where the model won the Oscars of watchmaking – AIGUILLE D’OR GRAND PRIX. And I can tell that this watch deserves every bit of the prize.
The disc jump of the Zeitwerk is so remarkably fast and precise that it feels worthy of a standing ovation—or perhaps even a medal for the watchmaker who achieved such meticulous adjustment. I was fortunate enough to meet one of the masterminds behind it, though I refrained from handing over a medal. Blink, and you’ll miss the jump; it’s that instantaneous. And what’s even more astonishing is that this accuracy is unfaltering—it performs with the same flawless precision minute after minute, for years.
However, perfection remains elusive, even for the Zeitwerk. The discs are layered on top of each other, creating a minor disparity in their levels that’s visible through the right-side window. This design choice, while functionally necessary, has been a sticking point for some enthusiasts. Whether A. Lange & Söhne ever considered addressing this or if a solution was even feasible remains unknown, but the design trade-off underscores the immense challenges of achieving such mechanical complexity.
Despite this, A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk remains a groundbreaking feat of horology, where the brilliance of its execution far outweighs the imperfection of its stacked discs.
Following 13 years of continuous production, the first generation Zeitwerk was retired in 2022. The new generation came in platinum case / rhodium dial (142.025) and pink gold case / black dial (142.031) configurations. Interestingly, neither are limited, yet as usual with the brand’s late launches, boutique exclusive.
The design updates of the new Zeitwerk mirror the subtle refinements made to the Lange 1 in 2015. The goal was to preserve the original aesthetic while introducing modern enhancements. One such change is the slightly enlarged sub-seconds dial, which now extends into the German silver time bridge, providing a more balanced appearance. Additionally, the updated font is thinner and more defined, creating a cleaner look and giving the impression of a larger dial.
One fascinating update is that, despite the double power reserve and quick set button, the new Zeitwerk manages to trim the thickness from 12.6 mm to 12.2 mm, which adds tremendously to its comfort. We are going to dive in this below in the movement section.
Note the thinner font, bigger sub-dial, and “MADE IN GERMANY” inscription within the sub-dial. Courtesy of Lange Uhren GmbH
The new Zeitwerk, introduces a practical and much-appreciated innovation: a quick-adjuster pusher (borrowed from the earlier Zeitwerk Date) located at 4 o’clock. This addition allows the hours disc to be advanced independently, offering a convenient alternative to using the crown for adjustments.
This enhancement addresses one of the key limitations of the first-generation Zeitwerk, where setting the time required careful manipulation of the crown to move both the hours and minutes. With the quick-adjuster pusher, users can now increment the hours with ease, providing a more user-friendly experience without compromising the mechanical complexity or precision of the movement.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk - The Movements
As of November 2024, A. Lange & Söhne has cemented its legacy as one of the most distinguished movement manufacturers in modern horology. Over 30 years, the brand has developed an impressive array of manufacture calibers. Boundary pushing creations like the Triple Split and the Cabaret Tourbillon showcase Lange’s pioneering spirit, while timeless classics such as the Datograph epitomize the aesthetics in movement construction and precision mechanics.
Among these achievements, the caliber L043.1, introduced in 2009, is a shining example. Much like its dial, the L043.1 stands out both technically and aesthetically, offering a unique identity in an industry often characterized by derivative designs.
The Zeitwerk’s L043.1 is not merely a functional mechanism; it is an object of fascination. Its precision, ingenuity, and beauty make it a movement you can proudly showcase to non-watch enthusiasts. It serves as a gateway into the world of fine watchmaking, offering a tangible explanation of why these timepieces transcend utility to become works of art. The Zeitwerk movement is an invitation to appreciate horology at its finest, both as a technical achievement and as a statement of uncompromising artistry.
To truly understand the significance of the Zeitwerk, we must examine its intricate mechanics.
Starting at 12 o’clock on the movement photo and moving clockwise, the key components include the mainspring barrel, the anchor bridge carrying the constant-force mechanism, the escapement, the balance wheel, and the winding gears.
The mainspring barrel serves as the gas tank of the watch, supplying the necessary energy to drive the mechanism. In typical watches, the power demands are modest, and a relatively thin, short mainspring suffices. However, the Zeitwerk’s design presents a challenge due to its large, heavy discs. To meet these demands, A. Lange & Söhne uses the thickest mainspring in its lineup, capable of delivering the substantial torque needed to operate these oversized components.
This power, however, must be controlled to ensure consistent performance, and this is where the remontoire mechanism comes into play.
A remontoire (meaning “to wind” in English) is a small secondary source of power, a weight or spring, which runs the timekeeping mechanism and is itself periodically rewound by the timepiece’s main power source, such as a mainspring. The constant force mechanism, delivers equal torque every minute to create that magical disc jump; 1608 times a day.
Before jumping into the explanation below, it is important to understand the following two concepts for the Zeitwerk:
- The raw power coming from the mainspring is too much for the balance system to handle. Therefore, the constant force escapement releases an optimal portion.
- The third wheel in regular watches sits between the center wheel (minutes hand) and fourth wheel (seconds sub-dial) and arranges the corresponding gear ratio. Zeitwerk doubles down on the third-wheel, explained below.
As known, Zeitwerk shows the time with three discs – hours, minute units and minute tens. Zeitwerk demands a significant amount of power to snap forward all three discs at the same time, or at least once in every minute for the minutes disc. Remontoire is the mechanism that makes this magic happen precisely in every 60 seconds.
The pretensioned remontoire spring plays a crucial role in regulating the energy flow within the Zeitwerk’s movement. It continuously receives energy from the mainspring barrel, delivered via the center wheel and the third wheel pinion. Any surplus energy is stored within the system, ensuring consistent power delivery to the rest of the mechanism. In this configuration, the lower (driving) third wheel remains stationary while the remontoire spring transmits its stored energy to the upper (driven) third wheel, which then directs it to the escapement through the rest of the wheel train.
Please note the instant discharge towards the right. Courtesy of @penny_watch
The movement relies on the interaction between the driving third wheel and a set of control pinions. These pinions, located above the driving third wheel, alternate their positions block and release. Each pinion is equipped with a blocking disc and a blocking finger, which interact with the Y-shaped control lever. The lever contains two pallet stones, against which the blocking finger alternately rests. This synchronized motion ensures that the lower third wheel is alternately held in place while maintaining a steady transfer of energy to the remontoire spring.
Every 60 seconds, the lower (driving) third wheel is released by the slightly rotating control pinions, and thus generates an energy impulse for switching the disc mechanism. This process is regulated by the control lever with its cyclical pivoting motion derived from the fourth wheel. With the fourth wheel, the eccentric roller on the same arbor rotates once a minute, causing the control lever to move back and forth.
Every minute, the constant-force mechanism in the Zeitwerk releases a burst of energy sufficient to move all three time discs. However, this introduces another challenge: the energy required for such an action is only needed once an hour. For the remaining 59 minutes, the excess energy must be managed to avoid disruption or inefficiency.
The solution lies in an ingenious mechanism called the Windflüge (or “wind break”), a component resembling a tiny revolving door. Positioned beneath the last jewel bearing of the remontoire bridge, the Windflüge is activated when the tension is released. As it spins, it dissipates the excess energy through friction, effectively “dumping” the unneeded power. This clever mechanism ensures that the movement operates smoothly and precisely, regardless of whether one, two, or all three discs are moving.
Moreover, the caliber L043.1 houses only 36 hours of power reserve – and that is again a responsible decision made possible by the Maltese-cross or stop-work system. Here, I’d like to quote from my watchmaker friend Xavier on how:
“Generally, stop-work is used to cut both the top and the bottom of the energy release to gain consistency. You cut the top and bottom extremes of the power to let the mainspring work only in the less variable central part of the reserve.
A little-known fact, the same mechanism is also present at the first generation Datograph models.
Caliber l043.1 (left) and Caliber L043.6 with modernized look, and updated technics. Source: Lange Uhren GmbH
The new caliber L043.x, introduced with the Zeitwerk Date in 2019, marked a significant evolution in the Zeitwerk series. One of the most notable improvements is the doubling of the power reserve to an impressive 72 hours, achieved through a redesigned twin-barrel system. Remarkably, this enhancement was implemented without any increase in the movement’s size.
Visually, the movement also received subtle but meaningful updates. The most prominent changes include the straight remontoire bridge, and the sunray-finished ratchet wheel, which adds a touch of modern refinement to the movement’s aesthetics.
The new generation of A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk watches brings a fresh – and rather needed – perspective to the collection. It combines the series’ original charm with modern enhancements that elevate both functionality and design. With these thoughtful updates, I have no doubt that the new Zeitwerk models will enjoy the same level of acclaim and success as their predecessors.
One note here: If you check out some Zeitwerk reviews, you are going to see claims such as all the steel parts of the Zeitwerk is black polished – which is simply not correct. Only the Maltese cross and escape wheel cap features flat polish; which slightly resembles the black polish. Such technique is simply not feasible to apply to relatively mass-produced watches, therefore not present in Zeitwerk. The only watch with a surprising amount of black polish on steel parts is the Grand Complication – retails for €1.92 million.
Pre-Arming of the Zeitwerk Discs
A. Lange & Söhne is well-known for its practice of implementing silent updates to their movements over time-embodied in their mantra, “Never Stand Still.” The caliber L043.1, powering the Zeitwerk, has seen two significant updates since its debut, reflecting this commitment to refinement.
The first update involved changes to the balance system, likely introduced around 2010. This modification, first seen in the Zeitwerk Lumen, doesn’t create a noticeable difference for the owner. Interestingly, due to Lange’s production process—where watches are assembled based on order numbers rather than sequentially—some Zeitwerk Lumen models may still feature the earlier balance system. As such, pinpointing the exact watch number or year when the update became universal remains difficult.
The second update, introduced in mid-2017, eliminated the pre-arming of the discs, a more user-focused improvement. This change streamlined the disc-jumping mechanism, making it more efficient and enhancing the overall functionality of the watch. Unlike the balance system update, this improvement has been widely recognized in the horological community for its direct impact on the visuality.
For those unfamiliar with pre-arming, it is best illustrated by watching the Zeitwerk Lumen gif here, closely. About 5-10 seconds before the discs jump, you can observe a slight motion on the minute discs, akin to a rocket preparing for launch. Since the Zeitwerk’s launch, this behavior sparked debates on forums and social media, with some speculating whether it was a defect or a quirk of the design.
Curious about this, I posed the question to Lange’s manufactory executives, who clarified that the pre-arming was an intentional feature for safety precautions. Whether one chooses to believe this explanation or not is a matter of personal perspective. Regardless, around mid-2017, the brand developed to eliminate the pre-arming mechanism in newly produced Zeitwerk models, replacing it with a more seamless operation.
Following this update, a common question among collectors has been: “Can Lange eliminate the pre-arming on my Zeitwerk during service?” The answer is no. Addressing this feature requires substantial changes to the movement that cannot be accomplished through regular servicing. Owners of earlier Zeitwerk models with pre-arming will retain this characteristic as part of their watch’s original design – which I think adds a tremendous joy of collectability.
Concluding Thoughts / Buying a Zeitwerk
The Zeitwerk, while not the first digital mechanical watch, stands as a unique achievement in horology. Historical predecessors like the Pallweber and contemporary innovations such as Vianney Halter’s Harry Winston Opus 3 paved the way for this genre of timepieces. However, the Zeitwerk distinguishes itself with its exceptional precision, ensuring that the jump occurs exactly at 60 seconds. For a relatively young brand with just 19 years of modern history at its launch, the Zeitwerk has become a defining statement in the landscape of contemporary watchmaking. This is something that you would expect from a wildest independent, and that says a lot.
Beyond its technical and aesthetic merits, the Zeitwerk offers an entirely distinct experience within A. Lange & Söhne’s catalog. Living with a Zeitwerk is an exploration of its nuances, from its precise jumps to its elegant execution, offering a deeper appreciation for mechanical ingenuity.
In terms of the secondary market, pre-owned Zeitwerk models have seen notable shifts in pricing. Initially, first-generation models were available around $40,000, $45,000 range compared to their retail price in the mid $80,000 range. However, as A. Lange & Söhne’s popularity has grown, this pricing dynamic has changed. By 2024, the most sought-after reference, 140.029 (the first-generation white gold model with a black dial), is typically found in the $60,000 range today. With the MSRP of new Zeitwerk models now exceeding $100,000, the first-generation Zeitwerk represents incredibly compelling value in the pre-owned market.
To open up a parenthesis on the new generation models: I simply think that the $121k price tag for the reference 142.025 (platinum case / rhodium dial) and $104k for the 142.031 (pink gold case / black dial) are too ambitious.
As we start to have some examples of the new A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerks in the market, we can see that the platinum model trades at around $100-$110k depending on set, condition, etc. whereas the pink gold variant has a higher cut.
I hope this was a valuable guide for whomever is looking for a Zeitwerk model or just want to learn the details and history of these pieces. If you’d like to chat, sell or buy a Zeitwerk, please kindly reach out to me via [email protected]
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