The Definitive Guide to Lange 1 TimeZone
The second it was introduced the night of 24/10/1994 in the still partly destroyed Dresden Castle, Lange 1 took the watchmaking world by storm. It was daring, original, traditional in a sense but perhaps most importantly stunningly beautiful. Its eccentric lines made Lange 1 the face of A. Lange & Söhne in no time – its most recognizable object of desire.
Lange 1 was built to be a collection. Its first special edition variant arrived in 1998 – the splendid Lange 1A with a solid gold dial and the first expansion of the collection took place in 1999 with Lange 1 Tourbillon. In the meantime, this truly iconic design came in many facets, each one is more delightful than the other.
Success was immediate. After only 10 years of the brand’s initial launch, it would not be wrong to say that A. Lange & Söhne became a cult around the world, especially among the seasoned connoisseurs. On the other hand, by then there was already a growing appetite towards rather bigger pieces. Combining the mentioned aspects, it was only logical to launch a watch that would strengthen the notion that A. Lange & Söhne is now a worldwide brand and its testament arrived in 2005 – Lange 1 Timezone.
Lange 1 Timezone
The Timezone, possibly due to its customization opportunities provided by its city ring, is the model with the highest number of variants. To my knowledge, since its introduction in 2005 to its update in 2020, the collection was offered in more than 20 different editions with different case, dial color, city ring and bracelet variations. However, all models are offered with the same case and movement designs.
The following article starts with the 2005 variant and takes a deep look at the case construction. The dial section closely examines the design elements of Lange 1 Timezone, its differences from the original model and the 2020 novelty version. The caliber L031.1 section gives insights on the working principle, its design and the updates on the new caliber L141.1. Lastly, the article finishes with the variants of Lange 1 Timezone, its collectability and current market prices as of December 2020.
Lange 1 Timezone measures 41.9 mms in diameter and a slender 11 mms in thickness. This is 3.4 mms wider and 1.2 mms thicker than the standard Lange 1. The width is a result of the city ring and the thickness is the second timezone mechanism. It is proportionate and sits beautifully on the wrist as its original.
Its case is a classic A. Lange & Söhne – constructed on three steps with alternate finishing techniques. While the case back ring and the bezel are polished, the case band is brushed (pink gold case models prior to 2020 is the exception) which delivers a strong and a much necessary contrast. The distinctive part of any A. Lange & Söhne case, the separately soldered lugs are ever present with superb details such as notched base and varying, sharp angles with delightful curves.
To accompany the larger diameter, the lugs are extra curved (compared to Lange 1) , which tremendously helps to balance the watch on the wrist.
The crown is at great size and very easy to operate. There are also two pushers at the left-hand side of the watch. The pusher at 11 o’clock advances the outsized date whereas the lower one changes the city ring, therefore the second timezone. Each pusher is individually beveled, polished and brushed and seamlessly integrated to the overall case design. The city ring pusher’s operation is examined in the dial section below.
For the strap, Lange 1 Timezone’s distance between lugs is 22 mms and buckle is 16 mms.
Lange 1 Timezone Dial – 9 Hands 1 Beauty
For any Lange 1 variation, there is only one strict rule: You do not mess with the harmony of the sub-dials, power reserve indicator and outsize date. Because it is just so strictly calculated and formed according to the rule of thirds, even the smallest change in proportions causes significant distortion. Lange 1 Timezone however, even though it has many added features and texts on the dial, somehow manages to keep the spirit without disturbing the overall appearance and delivers the needed information masterfully.
Lange 1 Timezone is not a world timer – it is a two Time Zone watch with 9 hands which are immediately attention grabbing and looking somehow scattered through the dial. The dial at 9 o’clock, or the bigger dial is the home time that runs independently from the city ring. The smaller sub-dial at 5 o’clock is the second time zone dial which runs according to the city chosen in the ring. Each dial has its own day/night indicator which is placed at the 12 o’clock for the home time and 8 o’clock for the second timezone. The watch could do very well without the small seconds; however, it is not a deal breaker by any means.
The city ring is operated via the pusher at 8 o’clock. Each push advances the city ring and the second time zone by one step (hour). 24 cities = adjustable for 24 different time zones. The day/night indicator becomes particularly useful if you are dealing with a timezone that is substantially different than yours. However, the day/night indication’s arrangement is a bit odd and confusing; because the nighttime (the blue part of the circle) is shown through different axes for home time and second time zone dials. The nighttime in the circles shows between 6PM and 6AM.
On the other hand, I am not fond of the hanging day/night indications and I think Lange made a tremendous job in the 2020 update for the Lange 1 Timezone by moving them within their respective sub-dials. Such sub-dial design is somehow present in almost all Lange pieces launched in the 2000s but later updated.
You should note that the time zone differences between the cities are not adjustable. Which means, if a region does not adhere to the same winter or summer times as it was intended with Lange 1 Timezone, then the watch becomes obsolete – other than the joy it delivers through its beautiful dial. Though there is a solution: If the two zones do not display the correct difference, simply hold the city ring pusher down and you can adjust the home time (bigger sub-dial) independently.
Also, expect a very stiff city ring pusher compared to all other Lange watches – perhaps except the Odysseus.
After understanding the indications and the usage of the watch, let’s take a look at its evolution from the original Lange 1:
Apart from the small seconds placement in the Lange 1 Timezone (left) all the sub-dials’ and outsized date indication’s placements are (almost) identical to the original Lange 1. This is because, as said, no one (not even Zohan) can mess with the original. However, if you ever thought why Lange 1 Timezone’s dial feels a bit cramped or perhaps crowded, the answer is here: The lack of space within the main dial.
As you can observe, even though the indications are identically placed, the differences start to show themselves especially on the upper and lower part of the dial. The logo part is too narrow at the Lange 1 Timezone, causing a jam-packed appearance – and the same for the Doppelfederhaus section down below. However, obviously such an arrangement was needed to fit the city ring, which increases the diameter of the watch by more than 3 mms despite the squeeze in the main dial.
All in all, it comes down to taste. Many collectors find the original Lange 1 quite dull, notably after getting used to Lange 1 Timezone. Yet; many also cannot wrap their minds around the timezone version as it slightly distorts the original appearance, and perhaps tweaks a bit too much – which Grand and Little Lange 1 also suffer…
In my view, Lange 1 Timezone is a great transformation of the original Lange 1. It is not as reserved nor subtle; it is a bit sporty but also supremely elegant and can carry different applications much better than its inspiration. Take the lumed hands. I am not a fan of the white gold Lange 1 with lumed hands (191.039) at all. However, they suit the Lange 1 Timezone just right because the overall appearance supports such tweaks much better.
New 2020 Lange 1 Timezone
In 2020, after 15 years of production and plentiful variants, Lange 1 Timezone received its much-awaited update. The new model comes with a new caliber as well as a tidier and more streamlined indication arrangement while keeping the core design elements such as the city ring, font, size of indices etc. the same.
New Lange 1 Timezone came in yellow, pink and white gold cases with champagne, argenté and black dials respectively. Though the black dial version created the biggest fuss, in my book, Lange 1 Timezone is pink gold. It is just such an unbeatable combo.
The striking purity of the new Lange 1 Timezone is immediately apparent. Hanging day/night indications are moved around the periphery of the central pinions. The result is a much cleaner and elegant look. Moreover, they are now much more legible and do not require further attention as the old versions do. The indications rotate once in 24 hours, and just as the old version, the colored section shows between 6PM and 6AM.
The second addition is a much more user-friendly feature: the daylight-saving time indication. The red dot underneath the city pointer in the second time zone dial tells you whether the selected city is applying the daylight-saving regimen or not. Albeit, not the most necessary feature, it is a well thought out update. Now you just have to pray for the EU to not drop the daylight-saving policy.
Overall, the new Lange 1 timezone is as beautiful as ever. It has a much more balanced display and it is easier to read information. Its updates are also in line with the recent indication updates of the brand. For example, Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon also features almost the exact same update from its predecessor Datograph Perpetual where Lange moved the hanging day/night and leap year indications within sub-dials and achieved a more-balanced look. I suspect that we might see a similar update to Langematik Perpetual, too.
Another difference is the prints. Perhaps inspired from the Lange 1 update in 2015 where the watch became much more pure thanks to thinner fonts, we see the same application here. Such a tweak tremendously contributes to the serenity of the watch and takes-off the crowd a bit. The dots between the cities are colored in grey rather than black; which further strengthens the subtle appearance.
Caliber L031.1 and L141.1
You know, part of the joy of having a Lange is the opportunity to unstrap the watch once in a while and just admire that movement, preferably under the sun from different angles. Or as many of us do, while waiting during the traffic lights… Lange 1 Timezone’s caliber L031.1 delivers exactly this, and perhaps even overachieves it.
As one might infer from the rather small balance wheel and its placement, the caliber L031.1 is based on the original Lange 1’s L901. And just like its inspiration, the movement nicely fills the case back (albeit the updated L141.1 is much better at this) and offers the breathtaking view we all got used to from the brand. It is pure Saxon watchmaking artistry with blue-screwed gold chatons, German Silver three-quarter plate, flat polished swan’s neck adjuster and escape wheel cap – albeit with one extra: It has not one, but two hand-engraved bridges.
Both the caliber L031.1 and the new L141.1 beat at 3Hz and offers 72 hours of power reserve. The caliber L031.1 consists of 417 intricate parts. For reference, the base caliber L901.0 is made of 365 parts. The difference comes from the added second timezone mechanism and its pusher; which some of its parts are visible above the striped three-quarter plate. A. Lange & Söhne has an excellent technical drawing of the mechanism along with an explanation:
When the button at 8 o’clock is pressed, the corrector button transfers the motion to the four-toothed corrector star – which is rigidly connected to the corrector wheel (hence the need for a strong push). The wheel engages the gear rim of the city ring and advances the ring by one step with each push. In return, this motion of the ring is transferred to the city correction pinion and then the timezone correction wheel. Via the lower protruding teeth of the city correction pinion, this pinion and the wheel are only briefly engaged for the duration of the switching procedure, after which they are uncoupled again. Via the day/night indicator wheel and an intermediate wheel the rotary motion of the correction wheel switches the twelve-toothed hour-wheel pipe by one tooth, causing the zone-time hour hand to advance by one hour.
The new Lange 1 Timezone’s caliber L141.1 is based on the Grand Lange 1’s L095.1 – on the contrary to its advertisement as newly made from the ground-up. It is understandable why brands or perhaps many blogs tend to overstate such things. Because the movement part tends to be the biggest expense of a watch, especially for A. Lange & Söhne. However, Lange is a brand that does not need such exaggerations to justify the price and it leaves a bad taste in the mouth. On the other hand, thanks to this update, the new caliber L141.1 fills the caseback much better than the previous version as it is now 4 mms wider than the caliber L031.1.
Lange 1 Timezone Variants
Below, please find the numerous Lange 1 Timezone references from 2005 to date including special editions:
- 116.021 – Yellow gold case / champagne dial (2005 – 2017)
- 116.021M – Leon Martens Maastricht edition – Pink gold case / silver dial (10 pieces limited edition with Maastricht for GMT +1 and an engraved three-quarter plate for the 100th year of the retailer)
- 116.025 – Platinum case / rhodium dial (2005 – 2019)
- 116.025B – Sincere Edition – Platinum case / rhodium dial (2005 – 60 pieces with Singapore on the city ring)
- 116.025M – Platinum case / rhodium dial (2007 – 10 pieces for Leon Martens of Maastricht)
- 116.026 – Buenos Aires Edition – White gold case / white dial with blued hands (2010 – 100 pieces)
- 116.031B – Lange 1 Timezone Sincere Edition – Pink gold case / black dial (2005 – 30 pieces limited edition)
- 116.032 – Pink gold case / silver dial (2005 – 2019)
- 116.033 – Pink gold case / grey dial (2009 – 2013)
- 116.039 – White gold case / silver dial with lumed hands (2012 – 2019)
- 116.050 – Lange 1 Timezone Dresden Edition – Honey gold case / silver dial with blue highlights (2016 – 100 pieces)
- 116.066 – Lange 1 Timezone 25th Anniversary Edition – White gold case / white dial with blued hands and markers (2019 – 25 pieces)
- 136.021 – Lange 1 Timezone updated version – Yellow gold case / champagne dial (2020 – Boutique edition limited to 100 pieces)
- 136.029 – White gold case / black dial (2020)
- 136.032 – Pink gold case / silver dial (2020)
Other than these models, as the main sponsor of the event Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, A. Lange & Söhne gifts a unique Lange 1 Timezone to the best of show car owner every year since 2012 with Como on the city ring instead of Berlin as well as an engraved hunter caseback.
Apart from the models above, there are also the versions with bracelets as well as diamond fitted bezels. Indeed, thanks to its city ring, Lange 1 Timezone is an easily customizable model and the good thing is, the watch can handle many tweaks on the dial, hands, date color! A splendid design.
Buying a Lange 1 Timezone
When introduced in 2005, Lange 1 Timezone’s MSRP was $30k in gold and $41k in platinum. As a general practice within the industry, the prices skyrocketed in the following years and when discontinued, the original version’s price was more than $50k for gold models and $65k for the platinum.
Luckily, the secondary market exists, and you do not have to pay such prices. As much as the private dealers try to inflate its market for some reason, a gold Lange 1 Timezone tend to surface at one of the auctions every year couple of times and usually goes in between $25k to $30k depending on the condition, set and metal – sometimes even lower. On the other hand, the platinum versions usually sell a notch above $40k.
Special editions, as they were abundantly produced, do not command a sizable premium, and can be found above $30k at auctions or dealers.
The updated Lange 1 Timezone is priced at $52k. I think this version is going to do better than the previous edition in the secondary market as it is more balanced and highly differentiated between models both with case material and dial colors.
Overall, the first generation, at least as December 2020 is a splendid purchase in the secondary market. Lange 1 Timezone is a very versatile and a well-made piece that you’d enjoy in whichever occasion and find yourself staring at it just to admire its beauty instead of reading the time.
Thank you for your time.
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